Monday, November 5, 2018

TRANSATLANTIC CRUISE FROM COPENHAGEN TO NYC 9/27/18 to 10/12/18 - Part 1






We just arrived home from our big trip of the year -- a transatlantic cruise
from Copenhagen with day stops at four ports.  After spending four nights in Copenhagen, we boarded the Norwegian Breakaway for our 14 day cruise.

Part 1 of our blog will cover our 4 days in Copenhagen and the adventures we had in this beautiful city.

Part 2 will cover our transatlantic cruise on the Breakaway beginning with our four ports of call -- Gothenburg, Sweden - Southampton/London, England - Cobh/Cork Ireland and Ponta Delgada, Portugal Azores.

If you follow us on a regular basis, you know we're always looking for a bargain and we love to travel to new places.   This trip filled the bill on both counts.

We left from Ft. Lauderdale airport Thursday, 9/27 On Norwegian Air which has a non-stop flight for only $184.90!  Be sure to check this airline's calendar for the best flights if you aren't fussy about the date you leave.  It's our second
time on Norwegian Air and the flight was terrific beginning with the knowledgeable and friendly gal at the ticket counter who managed to find us aisle seats.


Rather than opt for meals on the plane, we bought sandwiches at the airport after going through security and, of course, we always bring snacks with us.  No need to purchase pricey meal package!  Non-alcoholic drinks were served throughout the flight by super nice flight attendants.  After our all-night flight and just before landing in Copenhagen we were given a rather unappealing sandwich so, again, take some food with you.


Arriving in Copenhagen, we found an ATM at the airport near the baggage pick-up and exchanged some of our dollars for kroners....$1 = 6 kroner and it's the only currency accepted in Denmark.  You can use your credit card in most places -- just make sure you advise your bank before you leave.

We also found a replica of the famous Copenhagen Little Mermaid which, we will find out later, to our surprise, is not that much smaller than the real thing! 



This trip we each had a large suitcase (we'll try not to do it again!) because we needed warmer clothes.  We Florida gals don't have Winter coats but know how to "layer" with turtlenecks, leggings and jeans.  Since we didn't want to drag our large luggage and carry bags on a train or bus, we opted for a taxi from the airport to our hotel which cost about $40.  The driver dropped us off at the door of our hotel, Cabinn City.



Before we book a hotel in any city, we check the reviews on Trip Advisor.  But we didn't listen to the reviews closely enough for this hotel.  It would be OK for an overnight but four nights was too long to be cooped up in their tiny, teeny rooms.  We didn't have room to open our luggage...we had to reach in the top and pull out whatever we could find.  It honestly felt like we were in a jail cell for 4 nights (and the police station is across the street).  Again, we're budget-minded and the hotel prices in Copenhagen are extremely high but we should have done a little more searching and spent a little more money.  

It didn't help to open the front door of the hotel and see a long flight of stairs in front of us before we could get to check-in.  There was an escalator and an elevator BUT they both had "Out of Service" signs on them.  Not a very nice welcome for two weary travelers.  Mary K trudged up the stairs and asked the person at the front desk if we could get some help with our luggage.  The desk employee came down the stairs and pushed a secret button on the bottom of the escalator and it slowly started up, despite the sign.

When we arrived in our room (cell?) we were ready for our mugshots and finger-printing.  The room was honestly that small and we had opted for the medium size rooms with 2 twin beds (cots) -- at least we didn't reserve the even-smaller bunk-bed room.  

There was one piece of soap the size of a half-dollar and if you wanted to take a shower, you turned the water on at the faucets in the sink.  The water then sprayed all over the tiny bathroom but the management kindly left a squeegee for us so that we could wipe down the bathroom for them.  Never again!



The hotel itself is shaped like a cruise ship and the rooms are supposed to represent ships' cabins...we've never been on a ship with cabins this small.




However, there were some pluses to the location of this hotel that were mentioned on Trip Advisor and we were drawn to it like bees to honey.  It's within about a 6-8 block walk to the train station and approximately 3 blocks to Tivoli Gardens amusement park.  Unfortunately, the park was closed during our stay, getting ready for the Halloween extravaganza at the end of the month.  Be sure the check Tivoli's web-site.






Train Station







Our first venture, in any of our destinations, is usually to explore our neighborhood....and to locate a close local cafe. 

Across from Tivoli at the beginning of Stroget....a must see expansive, bustling area filled with shops, cafes and restaurants....we found Storm 20 Cafe-Makerspace-Butik.  

A unique concept....while enjoying a latte, you have the opportunity to hand make a project, with the assist of talented employees, or browse the arts, crafts and books.  






Back to our hotel for a quick (very quick) rest and shower (sprinkle),  then out for evening exploring.  





Copenhagen is definitely bike friendly!  The bicycles in the background are actually stacked on "shelves".  This is the normal "parking" at the Train Station.

Returning to our hotel, we came across a wonderful little cafe just down the block from Cabinn City.  A perfect place to have a light dinner and relax.....and conveniently located right next to a grocer, which we visited throughout our Copenhagen stay.  

Our hotel is on the right with the neon sign.





Day 2 and 3 in Copenhagen --

The hotel is only about 2 blocks away from a Hop-On/Hop-Off bus stop at the Marriott and we always like these buses for a first time in any city.  We bought a 2 day pass and were able to sight-see most of the important landmarks in Copenhagen. 
















This little building is where the queen waits for her "boat" to arrive.



















Our hop on hop off tickets also included a marvelous boat ride to Nyhaven.
































The use of a kayak is free....if you help clean up the waters.







Back  on dry land.......



And.....details about the various parts of Copenhagen we visited....

THE STROGET

Our first morning, we signed up for the bus and decided to hop off at the pedestrian-only shopping area in the center of Copenhagen - the Stroget.

It has long been one of the most high-profile streets in the city and is one of the longest pedestrian shopping streets in Europe.  Stroget was converted to a pedestrian zone on 11/17/62 when cars were beginning to dominate Copenhagen's old central streets.  The idea was controversial -- many local merchants believed the move would scare away business.  The mayor even faced death threats.  On the opening day, police officers were present to protect against assassination threats, and unhappy car drivers honked their horns on side streets to mark their displeasure although the event was well attended and marked by dancing and music.  The project quickly proved to be a success and the area soon boasted more shoppers, cafes and a renewed street life.









Our next stop on the bus was the Little Mermaid Statue and it WAS surprisingly little.





In this photo, you can see just how small the Little Mermaid actually is.




We even found a Little Mermaid ornament for our Christmas trees!



BOAT RIDE

Our Hop On/Off ticket included a boat ride on a canal which was delightful.  The ride took us through a canal where we could see more of Copenhagen and ended at the beautiful area of Nyhaven.




















NYHAVEN







Nyhaven is a 17th century waterfront, canal and entertainment district in Copenhagen.  It is lined with brightly colored 17th and 18th century townhouses, bars, cafes and restaurants.  The canal also harbors many historical wooden ships.








Day 4 in Copenhagen ----
One of our goals was to find the unusual area called Christiana Freetown after we explored Nyhaven. 







We were pointed toward a pedestrian draw bridge, told to walk across, turn to the right and walk along the canal. Keep in mind.....the pedestrian bring is very long!  















And....there's always the possibility of a boat or two coming through....




As we walked we kept looking down side streets to our left.

Several businesses, shops and cafes are on the lower level.  



...we knew we could spot Christiania as soon as we saw graffiti covered wooden fencing and, after several blocks, we finally saw the fencing.


















CHRISTIANIA/FREETOWN

This area consists of former military barracks and parts of the city ramparts.  After the military moved out, the area was only guarded by a few watchmen and there was trespassing by homeless people using the empty buildings.





The colorful lanterns guide you to Pusher Street
















Local General Store















On 9/4/71 inhabitants of the surrounding neighborhood broke down the fence to take over parts of the unused area for a children's playground.  Although the takeover was not necessarily organized in the beginning, some claim this happened as a protest against the Danish government.  At the time, there was a lack of affordable housing in Copenhagen.  On 9/26/71 Christiania was declared "open" by Jacob Ludvigsen, who published a magazine which was distributed mostly to young people.  He wrote an article about "The Forbidden City of the Military".

"Christiania is the land of the settlers.  It is the biggest opportunity so far to build up a society from scratch -- while nevertheless still incorporating the remaining constructions.  Own electricity plant, a bath-house, a giant athletics building, where all the seekers of peace could have their grand meditation and yoga center.  Halls where theater groups can feel at home.  Buildings for stoners who are too paranoid and weak to participate in the race....Yes, for those who feel the beating of the pioneer heart there can be no double as to the purpose of Christiania.  It is the part of the city which has been kept secret to us - but no more."

The spirit of Christiania quickly developed into one of the hippie movement, the squatter movement, collectivism and anarchism in contrast to the site's previous military use.

Ludvigsen had always talked of the acceptance of drug addicts who could no longer cope with regular society, and the spirit of that belief has not diminished,  even though many problems sprouted due to drug traffic and use (mostly of "hard drugs" which are not tolerated in Christiania.) These addicts enter and remain in the community and are considered just as integral to the Freetown ethics as the entrepreneurs.  For this reason, many Danes have seen Christiania as a successful social experiment.  However, for years the legal status of the region has been in limbo due to different Danish governments attempting to remove the Christianites.  Such attempts at removal have all been unsuccessful so far.













NOMA

As we walked back to the pedestrian bridge, we kept our eyes open for Noma which is a 2 star Michelin restaurant located in an old warehouse in the Christiania neighborhood.  It's run by chef Rene Redzepi and is not only quite unique but very expensive.  One of the most current reviews on Trip Advisor advised the cost of dinner for two with wine was $1266 U.S. dollars so it was well above our budget.  However, it was interesting to read about Noma -- "In 2010, 2011, 2012 and 2014 it was ranked as the "Best Restaurant in the World" by Restaurant magazine.
























THE WOODEN STATUES

Danish artist Thomas Dambo has inspired nature lovers in Copenhagen by hiding six giant wooden sculptures throughout six different municipalities in the area.  Most helpful and generous with his time and knowledge, Troels Nielsen, assists Mr. Dambo in the wonderful creation of these fascinating works of art.  The sculptures are tucked away under bridges, behind trees, up on the hillsides and hidden within the brush of the forests.  The statues can only be found by using a treasure map on Dambo's website or deciphering poems near the sculptures.  


Each of the sculptures is made using scrap wood that would have otherwise been thrown out.  

The pieces include "Teddy Friendly" a giant sculpture standing right beside a lakeshore with a hand held out to help people cross the water stream.





There's also "Sleeping Louis" a sculpture napping in a location where homeless people would often sleep due to leftover trash in the area.  The work also creates a shelter that people can sleep inside of.




Peek into the distance and you may catch "Little Tilde", a sculpture hiding behind a big tree that sits filled with 28 different birdhouses.




And be sure to keep your eye out for "Oscar Under the Bridge" a giant troll built directly under a bridge, his hand holding onto the rail.




Finally, for magnificent views, look for "Thomas on the Mountain" where you can sit on his long legs and overlook the sweeping greenery in the distance.





Or perhaps you'll be lucky enough to find the "Hill Top Trine" which sits in a large meadow for those who want to crawl up and gaze the grazing sheep in the distance.



"I hope my art will inspire people to see the big potential in recycling and taking better care of our plant", Dambo wrote in his blog post.


HEJ, Copenhagen, Denmark!  Until our next visit!

Part 2 of our blog begins with our 14 days cruise on NCL Breakaway.

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